For the North Sarawak, Miri and Niah Caves After visiting Kuching Area, the next stage of the journey takes us to the north of the province of Sarawak. We arrived at
Miri, Sarawak's second largest city, a short flight from Kuching Malaysia Airlines. In Miri developed in the early twentieth century a major oil industry which remains the leading industry of the city. Shell Oil Company drilled the first well in 1910 oil, known as The Grand Old Lady
, currently one of the few tourist attractions in Miri.
However, most tourists who come here do so to visit the Gunung Mulu Caves
, declared World Heritage by UNESCO. About
Miri are also
Niah Caves that despite not being as famous as the former have a great archaeological importance.
We stayed at the Hotel
Eastwood Valley Golf & Country Club located 4 km from the airport. Although away from the city center, the setting is magnificent and the hotel offers a complimentary shuttle service to both the airport as the center so that the distance does not pose any problem. In Miri we
three nights and our initial plans are to visit the National Park Lamber
Hills and Niah National Park
where the caves of the same name. Gunung Mulu Caves and discard input, because it means adding two flights to a total of eleven that we have planned throughout the trip, telling the intercontinental.
We are left with the receptionist at the hotel that morning at 8:30 am we leave in the city in the Imperial Mall Shopping Centre Obviously our concern is not to shop, let alone this morning, but apparently The great distraction of the people of Miri and many of the tourists who come here is to spend hours in the many well-stocked shopping malls. That must be why the only destinations in the minivan to the hotel are different shopping malls, malls
. No matter, even from there will go to the bus station where we will get the National Park Lamber Hills in just over 40 minutes.
The flood that has fallen overnight and morning rain still requires us to change plans and discard the idea of \u200b\u200bgoing to PNLamber Hills. Thus, also has no sense to plant at 8:30 in a shopping center in Miri, so call reception delaying the transfer to the city to 10. This morning, all TV channels give the news that the English team won the World Cup in South Africa, the talk of the star of the trip, both taxi drivers and waiters with no exceptions.
took about 10 minutes to get to the center and as we left, we left in the Imperial Mall where we take for breakfast.
Miri Although not too many tourist attractions, will spend a few hours to tour the most interesting places and take the pulse of the city Shell.
Without abandoning the umbrella, started by the Garden City Fun found opposite the golden-domed mosque. This is a series of themed gardens and each zone has a different name: Garden of Vision, Islamic Garden, Ethnic Botanical Garden, Formal Garden, Chinese Garden, Garden Health ... The sprawling complex is also a civic center, a swimming pool and a public amphitheater, the largest outdoor Malaysia.
We went to Central Market and give a tour of the various positions and by the shophouses external run mostly by Chinese. We have still
organize the trip to Niah Caves tomorrow and not too many options: One is to go by public bus, the Syarikat Bas Suria company has 5 bus to Batu Niah, distributed between 6:30 am and 4pm. From Batu Niah to the offices of the Park can be reached by motor boat, taxi or walk about 45 minutes. The last bus back to Batu Niah from Miri at 3:30 pm.
The other option is to hire a private transport. We are located on the map and go in search of shelter Highlands where, according to Lonely Planet organize transportation to Niah Caves for a reasonable price. It costs us a bit finding the hostel but ultimately distinguish the poster. We climbed to the third floor reception and no one, just a sleeping cat on the counter. Tired of waiting and just let us walk on the street a woman asks us if we are looking for accommodation, proving to be in charge of the hostel. Right there in the street we deal for the transfer to the Caves: 60RM per person and we picked up at the hotel at 8:30.
Miri We continue our tour and arrived at the port reminiscent of the small fishing village that was Miri before the oil settle in the city.
The sun begins to push hard and take the opportunity to rest and eat.
already recovered, walked through the fish market with some specimens that we are entirely unknown. Some guys call us and beckon us to teach us proud with the big tuna on the counter. Right next to the market is the great Temple Tua Pek Kong Chinese . Miri China's population is very large and at that time the temple is very busy with people going to offer the incense sticks or some who try to figure out his future with the chopsticks or chim.
Although it has been a great day and do not have time to go to PN Lamber Hills and being Monday Petroleum Museum is closed for weekly holiday, which means that we can not know the Grand Old Lady, the first oil well.
We approach the tourist office to see if we have the opportunity to visit a longhouse near Miri. We say that there is a very close and although they say it is not too pretty, you can reach by bus. We approached the station and take the number 24 towards Lambir. Ask the driver to let us know, and after half an hour we reached the village Kampung Tunku Abdul Rahman .
The longhouses are the traditional houses of the natives of Borneo. This is community houses where several families live under one roof. True to its name of "long houses" some of them can have up to a hundred doors. Behind each door is a tiny townhouse apartment but the really interesting part of the longhouse is the common veranda that serves social area.
Visiting a longhouse is one of the most sought after attractions in Borneo, but not interest me at all to go to a longhouse tourism, how pretty it was. For that we had visited the Sarawak Cultural Village when we were at the Rainforest World Music Festival . Before entering a longhouse (unless you have paid a considerable amount to a tour operator) always wait to be invited. In the tourist office on paper scored me the name of the boss, Rh.Jarek, with whom we should ask. It did not look too out why soon to meet us. First we approached the head and then a group of women and children who invited us to enter.
We sat in the common area and then offer us tea, juices, biscuits and rice wine. Are ethnic went, the majority in this part of Sarawak. I can not imagine that only fifty years ago were the dreaded human heads cutters.
The chief and some of the younger women speak English well and are bombarded with questions. The rest, listen without understanding, but we look and smile. They are also interested in aspects of our culture and greatly surprised they only have a daughter and they have an average of six children. The longhouse is relatively small, and is "only" 23 doors. We have proud to have electricity 24 hours a day, running water, toilets and the small town also has a kindergarten and an elementary school. I am interested in the famous tattoos were, if only the oldest of these shows the tattoo on the nut. The tattoos were accustomed to the whole body, arms, legs and back and top of your hand if you had cut off a human head. The different reasons, flowers and birds, have a great symbolism and each design has its own reason for being. Tattoos are surprised by Westerners and do not understand very well that fashion, although young people were, but not the whole body tattoos like their ancestors, some current design combined with other traditional.
I ask the old man taking a picture of the tattoos and although I feel that I understand you feel uncomfortable for being the protagonist, and of course rule out the idea.
We loved visiting the longhouse why is not mounted any show for tourists and we have seen how they would actually live near a city. We have been in loincloths and feathers on the head, but wearing jeans and with mobile in hand. Have not told us stories of their ancestors cutters heads but the reality of how people live young people, their jobs, their progress, their concerns and looking to the future instead of trying to live the past.
When we leave, we leave a tip that will not accept any of the ways but we insist that the money to buy any gifts for children. It was a nice experience and we took leave of this hospitable people.
We walked along the road, where they disperse the remaining houses in the village but after a while of walking bus passes a sign that we stop and ask if you go to Miri. The driver has no change but insists that we sit quiet, and after few kilometers walk stops at a small roadside store and tells us that we can go to find instead that the bus ahead. I do not think this is a fact of life, but I was surprised by the tranquility of the other passengers. I try to imagine the same situation on a bus here and I think at least lynch the driver. Maybe it's his philosophy of life or way of being, but definitely not spend so bad milk like us.
Back to Miri, we approached the Tamu
Muhibbab , another major market where local Dayak will sell their vegetables. Already being collected but it gives us time to buy a mini banana delicious
longan or dragon eyes, a fruit similar to lychees. We
walking down the most modern city, where there are several pubs and restaurants with very good. We arrived at the shopping center where we stayed with the driver of the hotel that presents timely, as always.
About 10 minutes before the appointed time and we are waiting in the clubhouse of the hotel where we were that we would pick up for transport to the Niah National Park .
The receptionist said we had called advising that are underway, but spend half an hour and nobody comes here. Finally comes a car (we were expecting a minibus) with a subject that we do not identify whether it is boy or girl. Her hair is painted pink with a whole the shirt dress and take the car decorated with lots of soft toys and cushions, most pink. After going through some neighborhoods are going to pick up another item, also dressed in pink, and takes nails and toes long scandal. Josep Maria who was sitting in front, goes back with us, stuffed animals and pillows and let the men rose to talk about their things. It is curious why so young, about 23-25 \u200b\u200byears will not speak more than two words in English. There are Malays, Chinese and women but the hostel that served us yesterday that should provide work for the neighborhood kids or grandchildren.
The fact is that air conditioning has to freezing and going to 160 km per hour on a bumpy road. Josep Maria says it has learned to drive in a video game and I think not without reason. After 110 miles, we arrived at the National Park and we agreed the time of return. We checked into the Park office and pay the statutory 10RM per person. Near the office is the cafeteria - restaurant and some lodges that are decent.
To access paths should cross the Sungai Niah river boat and there is no bridge. 1RM only costs but the journey does not last even two minutes as it is literally going from one bank to another. The first thing is is a small museum located in a beautiful wooden building that shows the different archaeological site, which showed the presence of humans about 40,000 years ago. Besides being the first town in all of Southeast Asia, was never abandoned. It has found a large cemetery where the different periods from the Paleolithic to 1400 BC located in different layers, demonstrate this fact. Also found many items, from pottery, jewelry, etc. that accompanied the deceased during their long journey to the afterlife.
Having regard to the museum, began the journey that passes through wooden walkways on the ground and leads to the Great Cave after about 3 miles. Although the distance is short, we do it very slowly and we stop every two steps for the place it deserves. It is a pleasant stroll through a primary forest and only companion is a wonderful soundtrack. We try to walk in silence and the sounds of different birds, insects and monkeys did not abandon us for a moment. We know there are monkeys, proboscis and even snakes and crocodiles (as the road runs parallel to the river) but all I see are plenty of butterflies of different colors and sizes, lizards, centipedes a strident red, fluorescent mushrooms and a thick vegetation. The trunks of the trees grow haughty looking for sunlight and shallow roots are entangled among limestone rocks of strange shapes.
If this already seems impressive, a few meters away is the Great Cave
, 250 meters wide and 60 meters high. It is here carried out two activities collectors: on the one hand, ethnicity is the penang responsible for collecting the nests of swifts, a delicatessen
of oriental cuisine, especially China, from which it draws up the bird's nest soup. It is the only edible nest is made from the saliva secreted by the bird like the swallow, but smaller. Now it is harvest time but we can see the tall bamboo sticks used to climb and reach the nests. The other wealth that gives the cave is the guano, ie, the droppings of bats and swallows them, a highly valued fertilizer. In this case, not exploit it's going penang.
The place is impressive and the rock formations are covered with a greenish color of guano. The cave is quite dark and the light from the flashlight does not reach the highest point and can not see the nest but can hear the cries of birds overhead. Must walk with caution because the ground is very slippery. The images from inside the Great Cave to the outside of a movie straight out of Indiana Jones and stalactites hanging from the ceiling along with the forest vegetation in the background we offer a magnificent panorama. The boardwalk continues inside the cave, but first you have to climb a long staircase. That the torch is why it is essential completely dark and we look good where we put the feet. Here the scene of Indiana Jones movie becomes a horror film scenario. In some places there are holes through which natural light enters and dimly lit.
Finally we went out to the outside and about ten minutes until the Cueva Pintada
. The paintings, a faded red color does not look too good and hard to distinguish the drawings. Probably represent hunters and warriors, animals and the souls that accompany the deceased on the journey to the afterlife.
We return to the Grand Cave on the same road and came back here the starting point.
as I do not understand such an interesting place has so few visitors. I do not know if it will always be the same but we are just four or five people in the whole journey.
We arrived at the park office and go to the restaurant for lunch where we met the boys in pink.
turn to Miri and now it lead to another kid, that of long fingernails. We wonder if we stop at the beach but prefer to follow the path. The return trip has been more or less the same, perhaps it has not reached the 160 but has dropped from 140km / h. We have left the hotel, we have paid 180RM and never again. The tour but we love the fame I had read on the hostel
Highlands not see too well deserved: three quarters of an hour late, tight like sardines in a fairly rickety car and what is worse, a suicide at the wheel. We have given no picnic bag as he had read and not spoken to us throughout the journey. At least we have returned safe and sound.
Once in the hotel decided to use some facilities and go to the pool and jacuzzi. There is also the possibility of rowing on the lake but it's too late.
I connect to the Internet and receive an email from the tourist office where we say that tomorrow at 11:30 am we will pick to go to Brunei. The tourist office itself People who are formal. We dined in the hotel and tomorrow change of scenery and country.